Choosing sewing and embroidery thread

Start with the job

A load-bearing seam, decorative machine stitch, hand embroidery and quilting ask for different strength, abrasion resistance, surface and strand control. Choose the thread family before colour or spool length.

Read the size system name

Weight, ticket, count and Tex labels do not share one direction or definition. Never treat equal-looking numbers from different systems as equivalent; retain the named system and consult its maker's chart.

Test the complete path

The thread must pass freely through the needle eye and suit the point, fabric and machine. Sew a realistic seam, inspect both sides, flex it and launder the sample before changing tension to hide a mismatch.

Try this example

Sew two short seams through the actual fabric layers using two suitable thread-and-needle combinations. Keep seam length and stitch setting the same. Inspect both faces, flex the seam and apply the permitted wash. Loops, skipped stitches or fraying call for checking threading, needle and tension; thicker thread alone is not a repair.

Related lessons and tools

• Woven, knitted and nonwoven fabrics
• Embroidery thread and counted fabric
• Open tool